Ryukyu indigo

Ryukyu indigo

Ryukyu indigo is a plant that has been used as a dye in Okinawa since ancient times.
In Okinawa, it is sometimes simply called “ai” (indigo), and it was an essential plant for dyeing cloth in people’s daily lives.

When people think of indigo dyeing in Japan, many may picture the “tade indigo” used on the mainland.
However, in Okinawa, a different species of indigo plant—Ryukyu indigo—has been used.

Ryukyu indigo has the scientific name Strobilanthes cusia and is widely distributed in warm regions such as Southeast Asia, southern China, Taiwan, and Okinawa.
You might think Okinawa’s climate is ideal for Ryukyu indigo, but it is sensitive to UV rays. Cultivating it in Okinawa requires adjusting light levels, necessitating farming methods different from standard open-field cultivation. As a result, it is a much more labor-intensive plant to grow compared to Japanese indigo or Indian indigo.

However, in the mountainous regions of northern Okinawa, the sun is often hidden in the shadows during certain times of the day, and there is a history of indigo production in areas with dense tree cover. Thus, indigo dyeing has been practiced in Okinawa since ancient times.

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The Culture of Indigo Dyeing

Indigo dyeing is one of the dyeing techniques practiced throughout the world.
The blue of indigo is a color that humanity has used since ancient times.

In Japan, too, indigo dyeing has a long history, and during the Edo period in particular, it became so widespread in people’s daily lives that it came to be known as “Japan Blue.”

In Okinawa as well, indigo has been used as a dye for everyday life.
It is said to have been a common dye used to color fabrics for daily use, such as clothing and workwear.

When it comes to Okinawa’s dyeing and weaving culture, Bingata and banana fiber cloth are well known, but even among these, indigo has been used in daily life as a subdued color.

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Characteristics of Ryukyu Indigo

Ryukyu indigo is a different plant from the Japanese indigo (Polygonum tinctorium) found on the mainland.

Japanese indigo is an annual plant, whereas Ryukyu indigo is a perennial that can be grown year-round in warm regions.

While the shape of the leaves and the way they grow differ slightly, the most significant difference may be the impression the color gives when dyed.

The blue produced by Ryukyu indigo is often a soft blue rather than a deep one.

Of course, the color varies depending on the dyeing method and the state of the dye, but when viewed in the light of Okinawa, it has a unique atmosphere.

We feel that this color is, in a way, “Okinawan blue.”

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Ryukyu Indigo Dye

Ryukyu indigo leaves contain a compound called “indican.”
Through processes of fermentation and reduction, this compound transforms into a blue pigment known as “indigo.”

Indigo dyeing is the process of applying this indigo to fabric.

There are several methods for making the dye, but in Okinawa, a method involving soaking the leaves in water to precipitate the dye is also well-known.
The dye produced by this method is called “precipitated indigo.”

As an easy-to-handle indigo dye, precipitated indigo is used in a variety of dyeing techniques.

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The Moment the Color Is Born

One of the fascinating aspects of indigo dyeing is that the color is not blue immediately after dyeing.

When the fabric is removed from the dye bath, it still has a greenish hue.
As it comes into contact with the air, it oxidizes and gradually turns blue.

This moment is a magical one that never fails to amaze, no matter how many times I witness it while indigo dyeing.

The blue color is born slowly through the interplay of air and time.

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A Color That Changes With Use

The color of indigo-dyed fabric changes depending on whether it is new or has been used for a long time.

As you wash and wear it, the color gradually shifts.
Being able to enjoy this transformation is one of the distinctive features of indigo dyeing.

While the deep blue of a brand-new piece is certainly appealing, I believe the color that emerges over time is another charm of indigo dyeing.

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Ryukyu Indigo Labo

At the Ryukyu Indigo Labo, we engage in dyeing and research using Ryukyu indigo, as well as activities aimed at preserving and promoting indigo culture.

Indigo is not merely a dye; it is also a culture that has been nurtured through the relationship between nature and people.

In this blog, I plan to gradually introduce topics related to Ryukyu indigo, indigo dyeing, and Okinawa’s textile culture.